Wondering what top coat to put over paint? Specifically what kind of top coat for painted furniture? Consider this guide the holy grail for just that. It will walk you through all the different types of top coats and when to use each.
The first few pieces of painted furniture I did, I had no idea what a topcoat was or that I was supposed to use them to seal and protect furniture.
I quickly learned that if you paint a piece with a flat sheen of paint, you will eventually wind up with a bruised and scratched up piece of furniture – that ain’t pretty.
You live. You learn.
And then get Luvs.
Not really, those diapers were never great for us.
It took a few more tries, but I finally realized the benefit of a topcoat and when to use one.
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Topcoats and When to Use Them
Polyurethane
Polyurethane is most typically used on stained wood and gives a very durable finish. I don’t recommend polyurethane for painted furniture, because it tends to yellow the paint over time. Its also oil based, which works best on top of stained wood and other oil based paints. I do use Minwax Polyurethane to protect stained pieces like the inside of my front door. I typically brush on a light coat with a high quality paintbrush, followed by a light sanding, another light coat, light sanding, then a final light coat. I haven’t tried the wipe-on poly, but I have heard good things about it. I usually go with a satin polyurethane because the gloss is pretty glossy. If you don’t use the fast drying version, it usually takes a few days for your piece to fully cure.
Velvet Finishes Protect
Its no secret that my new favorite furniture paint is Velvet Finishes. Velvet Finishes paint already has a topcoat built into the paint. However, if you are painting something that will get a lot of use, like a tabletop, dresser, end table, etc., you should still use a topcoat on it. Velvet Finishes topcoat is called Protect. Its a polyurethane, but unlike Minwax, it is non-yellowing and water based, which is why I love it. Its gives great protection, without the yellowing. With this one, I brush on one light coat and let it dry- that’s it.
The vintage radio turned drink bar got a coat of Velvet Finishes Protect after it was painted.
Furniture Wax
There are many people that are crazy about furniture wax. I am not one of those people. In fact, this is my least favorite way to protect furniture, but I still do it on occasion when necessary. Wax gives furniture more of a flat finish, but still protects the piece. Most people will rub it on with a cloth, let it sit and then buff it. However, I have a much easier method to waxing furniture when I have to. Anytime I have waxed a piece, I have used Minwax Paste Finishing Wax.
When I made our laminate counters look like stone, I used wax to finish them because it gave the flat stone like finish I was looking for.
Polycrylic
Where many polyurethanes (except Protect) are oil based and go on stained wood and oil painted furniture, polycrylic is water based and can go on wood or paint. It can be applied the same as polyurethane – brush on, light sanding, brush on, light sanding, brush on. However, polycrylic can also be sprayed on with a paint sprayer. This is what I typically do, because it takes a lot less time and I usually only need one coat with my sprayer. I use my HomeRight Finish Max to do this.
I used polycrylic on this DIY Industrial coffee table over the stained wood.
Clear Topcoat Spray
I only recommend using spray topcoats over spray painted pieces. Most of the time, spray painted pieces don’t need any extra protection. If you are spraying something that is decorative and not going to get a lot of hands-on action, then I wouldn’t worry with top coating it. That being said, if you spray paint something and want to make it really glossy, you can spray a clear gloss topcoat on it to achieve the look. Spray a gloss topcoat or any other spray topcoat on in light coats. Fair warning – it can be tough to get semi-gloss and gloss spray topcoats even on large pieces. This is why you do multiple light coats, otherwise you could end up with streaks. I have always used Rust-Oleum spray topcoats when I needed a spray topcoat.
After I spray painted my barstools, I knew they would be getting a lot of use, so I gave them a couple coats of clear spray topcoat.
Some Glazes
This is a new one to me. When I found Velvet Finishes, I learned that their glazes also function as topcoats for added protection to your furniture – which is pretty sweet. They have two glazes, a dark and clear. The dark is great for aging furniture and you can make any color of glaze you want with the clear glaze. I actually have a post on that coming up soon. To apply the glaze, you brush on a small amount and then wipe off any excess. You can see how-to photos of this from this recent dresser makeover.
I used a dark glaze on this IKEA Tarva Dresser turned Drink Bar.
There are some cases in which you may not need a topcoat, like:
•Pieces painted with high-gloss or semi-gloss paint. These sheens are pretty durable and are easily wiped clean.
•Spray painted pieces such as lamps, photo frames, wall decor (things that don’t see a lot of hands-on use)
•Accent chairs / tables that don’t get a whole lot of use.
Do you have any tips or tricks about topcoats and when to use them?
Looking for more painting help?
What kind of paint do I use on that? – A guide to different types of paint and what kinds of surfaces each can be used on.
Why is my paint peeling? – Tips & Tricks to Keep Your Paint from Peeling & Scratching Off Your Furniture.
Prepping Furniture to Paint – when to sand, when to prime, when to degloss and when you can skip it.
How to Paint Walls – how to do it in less time with less mess.
And here’s everything you’ve ever wanted to know about painting just about anything.
Want to keep this list of best top coats for painted furniture handy for later? Just pin the image below!
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Hope Williams says
I thought I was the only one who does NOT like wax. Glad to know I’m not. I do love polycrylic. But I did not know you could use it in a sprayer though. Thanks for that bit of info on that one. It will save me a lot of time.
I have got to try velvet finishes. My last few cabinet doors and drawers are at the cabinet shop and I’m really close to getting my kitchen back. But I’m wondering if velvet finishes it recommended for kitchen cabinets ? Also need some help in the color coordination in there. I am STUMPED on this one.
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Girl, I am totally with you on the wax! And…..my kitchen cabinets just happen to be getting painted today…with Velvet Finishes! I’ll have a post up when its all finished – there will even be a video about it!
Hope Williams says
Woo Hoo, video! Reading the other comments I have learned that other folks are “cavewoman” type learners too. I’m not a read and do, I’m more of a hands on, show me type of girl.
Your cabinets looked great, but I’m glad to know that Velvet Finished can be used for kitchen cabinets.
Is it possible for you to do a color type forum? Ex: I want to do a soft yellow cabinet, red island, but I have wood walls in two places, wood ceiling and concrete floors. My counters will be wood as well. After the cabinets and island, no clue where to go. Begging for help on color inspiration. Even from other stalkers too. Think about it, it seems everyone is “in progress” from all the comments.
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
I think that’s a great idea, Hope! Maybe I could get people to send photos and share them in a post and on Facebook for feedback!
Hope Williams says
Let’s! A different perspective is all it takes sometimes.
Connie says
I hate to wax–really hate it–this girl does not wax nope never ever!!! I should start a No wax group on facebook,lol Glad there are others. 🙂
Leanne Reeves says
After reading these I felt compelled to compliment the person who wrote and compiled the information. Very well done! I read lots of these and yours was a breeze to see and understand! WTG! I’m smarter now! Thank you!
[email protected] Stroll Thru Life says
Great post, it is so nice to have a summary of all the different kinds and how to use them.
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Thanks, Marty!
Lindsay Eidahl says
Great, great, great tips! Thank you!
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
I’m glad they were helpful, Lindsay!
Melissa says
This came at a great time. I bought spray paint last weekend to change the color of my daughter’s toddler bed, but didn’t even think I’d need a top coat. I’m going to buy it before I start anything. Thanks!
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
I’m glad it was helpful, Melissa!
Patty says
How long does it take Protect to dry?
Jenna says
Not long – probably no more than an hour or so. The weather might make it take a little less or more time.
chris aka monkey says
great post jenna i like how you ‘splain things even a caveman could understand xx
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
haha! Well, I tend to understand things better when they are explained to me like a caveman…..haha
Christi Conard says
Thank you!!! You must have been reading my mind. I’m about to take on the task of repainting our bathroom cabinets, and all this info helps me so much!
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Great, Christi! I’m so glad!
Susan the farm quilter says
I have my grandmother’s quarter-sawn golden oak dining table and I love it. But it is only stained and doesn’t have any protection on it. I use placemats all over it, but my FIL wants to put his glass only on the wood (sigh) so I would like to put on a clear finish that will protect the wood, but I don’t want gloss. It is a round pedestal with 4 leaves that I would have to do, so I’m looking for your recommendation! The table was professionally refinished about 30 years ago, right before I got it…my mother had stained it an ugly dark wood color and had used the table for outdoor dining when I was a kid!!! It’s back to it’s beautiful original color and I just want to protect it.
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
So, if you want to leave the stain as is and not mess with its current color, I would use a satin polycrylic over it. That should do the job! Hope that helps!
Susan the farm quilter says
Thank you, Jenna!! I’ll give it a coat or two!
Deborah says
I would like to add a finish to my acrylic painted (WHITE) windowsill above my kitchen sink….since it can still get wet. What do you recommend?
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
I would go with a Polycrylic, Deborah. Since its white, you don’t want it to yellow over time and polyrcrylic won’t do that. If you put plants or stuff on it with moisture, definitely do a few coats.
Tina says
What about kitchen cabinets? What sealer do you use so you can wipe the greasy spots off without ruining them?
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
If they are stained, go with a Polyurethane. If not, got with a polycrylic – it help protect them and help them easily wipe off as well as keep the paint from yellowing over time! Hope that helps, Tina!
Sheri says
What can I use to control polyurethane odor . It gives me such a headache
Jenna says
Wear a mask and apply it in a well ventilated area.
Paula says
Jenna, I’ve been painting two tables to be used by my bedsides. I’ve prepped them per your instructions. Painted two coats of thin paint and after reading several of your posts, I think I need a topcoat. I used Glidden eggshell in Coral. I used a foam roller to make the paint as smooth as possible. I wasn’t sure where to buy Velvet paint, so Home Depot told me to use eggshell. That would be the closest thing to a velvet finish. I need your advise on a topcoat and brush. I think I should buy Minwax in Polycrylic. But what brand name of excellent brushes should I buy? I don’t have a sprayer. Not ready to tackle that yet. Help!!
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Yes, you definitely need a topcoat with an eggshell paint. I would go with Minwax Polycrylic. A Purdy brush would be my recommendation for a great brush to use. Do the poly in light coats. I hope that helps! I bet these tables are going to look amazing!
Maicon says
What about kitchen cabinets? What sealer do you use so you can wipe the greasy spots off without ruining them?
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Usually, a polycrylic will do the trick – go for a satin or semi-gloss finish depending on your taste.
Carol Edwards says
I need a topcoat for a barn quilt. It needs to be non-yellowing and weather-proof. What would you recommend?
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Hi Carol! Polycrylic is usually my go-to for a non-yellowing topcoat. However, I’m not 100% sure that its weather-proof. I would ask a person who works in your local hardware store’s paint department. If he says polycrylic is weather proof, I’d go for a satin or semi-gloss finish.
Christine says
Just came in via Pinterest.
This is such an informative post, I thought you might be interested in a topcoat no one seems to think of. I sometimes want a perfectly matte finish. No, I’m not going to steel wool a satin topcoat, nor am I going to spend a million $$ on a tiny container of some boutique almost-matte finish. I want inexpensive, DURABLE, and finally, M.A.T.T.E.
So here’s something for your arsenal:
Pick up some exterior, latex, DARK paint base. The kind used for black or navy dark colors. Exterior has the water and UV protection stuff in it. Latex for water clean-up. Dark, because it has absolutely no pigment in it. (BM is a 4 or 5, often found on sale.) And… washable. Unlike wax finishes, it can be given a quick, ammonia-based squirt with cleaners such as Windex!
This paint base goes on horrifyingly white, but dries absolutely and perfectly clear. Pretty much undetectable. And best of all, absolutely no shine. None. Squat. Nada. It’s almost impossible to see where it has been applied. The very cool thing is that unlike any other topcoat, including wax, it’ll glue down chips without them looking gummy. I really defy you to tell me it’s there.
Another cool thing is that it can be waxed, although that’ll bring a shine. Waxed shine, i.e. hand-rubbed, is so much better than that awful rub-on poly. And I do mean awful in its disappointing shine. Not sheen, SHINE.
If you have gotten glue on raw wood and it won’t take stain, consider a coat of the paint base, then waxing with your wax toned with the desired stain. A work around the glue splotches that sometimes won’t, or can’t be sanded out.
Anyway, I’m devoted to the raw wood look, and I love the matte finish over crackled stuff, too. You’ve done a very cohesive article here, but there are always innovations. I think you might like this. Give it a try and report back! 🙂
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Hi Christine! Wow! I had no idea you could use the exterior paint base for this!!! I will definitely be giving it a whirl! Thanks for the info!
Christine says
I look forward to seeing what you think. I’ve now done furniture. On raw wood, with crackle (again, screw the $$ boutique crackles/cracqueleurs) and either glaze, stain and darker wax overtop. The effects are amazing-cool. Plus, until I’ve told this very moment, no one has been able to replicate my finishes!! WahHAHAHAH {manical laugh}
LINDA FLEWELLING says
HELP! WHAT BRAND ARE YOU USING FOR THE EXTERIOR, LATEX, DARK PAINT BASE? I JUST DID A SEARCH FOR IT BUT IT PULLED UP CEMENT PAINT ECT… I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE THIS A TRY. I HAVE A HARD TIME GETTING POLY TO LOOK GOOD ALWAYS END UP WITH STREAKS AND OTHER ISSUES. I AM NEW TO REFURBISHING FURNITURE AND I LOVE IT!!! BUT HAVE NOT FOUND A TOP COAT THAT I LOVE. MAYBE IM TOO PICKY. IF YOU HAVE A PICTURE OF WHAT IM LOOKING FOR THAT WOULD BE HELPFUL. THANK YOU
Tiffany says
Hey, Jenna ~ Great post! We’re getting ready to do a couple of big painting and staining projects, and the other day I asked my husband if we should use a poly or something different. He shrugged his shoulders and said, “I don’t know. You live on Pinterest. Surely there’s something on there?” Smartie! Now there is something on Pinterest, because I just pinned your post! *insert evil laughter* That will show him! :0) Thanks for sharing!
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
hahaha!! He’s got jokes!!
Brenlee says
Such a helpful post! Great tips- thank you!
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Glad it was helpful, Brenlee!
Tre says
Hi. I just found this post on different types of top coats. I was wondering if I could use the velvet finish – Protect over acrylic latex satin. Unfortunately I found out about velvet finish after I had already painted twin beds and the rails that go with them. If the Protect can be used would I need to sand my project. It sounds like you don’t have to do that if you’ve used the velvet finish paint, which I didn’t so I was wondering if I would need to sand them before putting on the Protect. Any help would be appreciated
Thank you
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Hi Tre! I think it would work fine since Protect is a polyacrylic for latex based paint. I have only used it over Velvet Finishes so I can’t speak from personal experience though. Hope that helps!
Carmen says
Have a piece I chalk painted, don’t like the chalky appearance that it developed after a few months, it was waxed, can I use polycrylic if it has been waxed
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Yes, Carmen. First, just lightly sand the wax though.
Kristl DeBord says
I’m a bit late to the party, but I was curious…I have a dresser that I’ve painted a semi-gloss dark blue on the body, but the drawer fronts and top were sanded and restained as they had some ugly water marks on them. The top still isn’t perfect, but I’ll decorate it and no one will be able to really tell. Anyway, do you recommend some sort of top coat on the stained areas? I think I can get away with nothing on the painted parts, but I’m wondering if waxing or doing a satin poly on the wood would be best?
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Hi Kristi! If you don’t want a shine to the wood, then yes, a satin or wax topcoat would be a good idea. A satin polyurethane will hold up better than a wax topcoat will. Hope that helps!
Marcus says
Hi Jenna*, i’m painting a laminated dresser to make it look like a toolbox for the nursery, I sanded it lightly, used primer, then spray painted the main part gray and the drawers black. I picked up Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane to protect it. Since the colors are gray and black, would I have to worry about it yellowing? Or should I take it back and get a polycrilic or spray clear coat?
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
I don’t think you’re going to have to worry about much yellowing with those colors, Marcus. And also given that it was originally laminate, I would stick with the polyurethane for more protection.
Lizzie says
Hi
This was really useful!
I’m trying to work out if I need topcoat
Would you use it ontop of satin or eggshell paint?
Also I painted some laminate furniture but now every time i slightly knock it, it chips – again I used satin, would you topcoat it?
Thanks so much if you can be of any help
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Yes, I would definitely topcoat satin paint. Use a polycrylic satin or polyurethane satin to get the same sheen.
Faline George says
Hi ! As I write the white satin latex is drying on my kitchen cabinets. I’m scared to death I will have the kitchen marred in no time. Do I need a protectant of some sort?
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Yes, definitely use a topcoat. You can use a polycrylic or polyurethane. A polyurethane will protect them better, but has the tendency to yellow paint. A polycrylic will still protect them, but won’t yellow. Just make sure you do multiple coats with it.
Sandy Hartzler says
JUST COMPLETED A FAUX MARBLED FINISH KITCHEN COUNTERTOP for my friend, Sandy. She had bright orange countertops circa l970 which she was tired of. Couldn’t afford new formica, so I said I’d do it. Have painted bath countertops before, but never a whole kitchen.
1. wash all surfaces with TSP, rinse , dry.
2. sand surface, wipe clean with miracle cloth slightly dampened.
3. two light coats of 123 Bulldog Zinzeer water based primer, with light sanding between coats. Did use the mini foam roller for these two coats. Another light sanding
4. Coat of White satin latex paint, again applied with mini foam roller
5. three shades of grey, and medium brown craft paint applied with dampened sea sponge in random “veins”, then while still wet, use a clean sea sponge that is dampened to ‘feather-out’ the color…almost looked like a good watercolor painting. Let dry overnight
6.high gloss MINWAX Polycrylic-water based applied with NEW Purdy NYLOX soft brush for ultra smooth finish. It went on good but I could not keep a wet edge on the BIG countertop (48 inches by 84 inches) which opens into the family room next to the kitchen, had to go around the wall to reach that…by that time the edge was almost dry and left streaks when dry. UGH. Sand, wipe and apply ANOTHER light coat, with Sandy in the family room with another NYLOX brush to get my edge as far as I could reach. Ugh…still dried streaky, so went to Walmart (BAD idea…but it was closest, the paint guy said I’d want an 8 inch FOAM roller cover to spread it out smoothly…..BAD BAD BAD idea…cause it left gazillion tiny little bubbles. The surface was smooth…but was hoping/praying the little bubbles would burst or level out…..NOT!!! Sanded the whole surface with fine sandpaper sponges….went to MENARDS….got a mohair roller cover (prepared it by putting masking tape sticky side out around my hand going over the whole surface to make sure no little loose hairs, then wet it, squeezed dry, poured a bit of Polycrylic on surface and spread it out with the mohair roller using an extender handle so I could reach clear across the 48 inch counter,then pulled very lightly across the surface with a rubbermaid 9″ paint pad (which was also conditioned like the mohair roller) also with extended handle so was able to keep the wet edge. Did 3 more light coats with sanding in between. Total of 8 coats of paint. The surface was wonderfully smooth and shiny like she wanted but I could still see those GAZILLION LITTLE BUBBLES way down in the there!!!!! But Sandy was pleased….said, “Life isn’t perfect…so it isn’t the best you’d like but I’m THRILLED WITH THE NICE NEW WHITE MARBLE kitchen counters.” Brightened up her whole kitchen. Now THAT’S a friend! Had to make 9 trips: 50 miles round trip. She paid me well for it all. Plus we had good fellowship waiting between coats to dry and learned a new card game: 4 down-4 up. Just wish I’d known all this before so thought I’d take time to write it all down for you. You seem like a gal after my own heart. Love painting: even painted two upholstered swivel rockers which had a brocade fabric…which still showed on the finished project…but that’s another story! Happy Painting to a soul sister. = )) ps YES, my name is Sandy and my dear friend is also Sandy…not a typo.
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Whew, girl – you are are a great friend! It sounds like you and Sandy are very lucky to have one another! Thanks for all the info – it’s very helpful and I’m sure will be helpful to others as well!
Jody says
I am painting a table and chairs that have a bamboo look with Amy Howard’s One Step Chalk paint in Mollie Yellow. From a previous project, I am not fond of wax finishes. I want this to have a tiny sheen plus protection. What do you recommend? Thank you.
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
I would go with a satin Polycrylic. That should do the trick, Jody!
Alice says
I can’t believe you are still answering questions, lol!
I inheirited a vintage 1947 piano from my grandmother. Unfortunately, in transit from NY to MD it got a fairly bad dent in the front, 1/2″ deep and 5″ wide. After judicious application of wood filler and stain, it at least looks better – but I would love to give it a top coat. Are any of these good for spot coverage? I don’t want to have to do the whole piano. Also, I am not sure if I should go semi-gloss or velvet since the finish has dulled over 70 years.
Thanks!
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Hi Alice! Since you just have this one spot, I would use a wipe-on Polyurethane. You should be able to get it at your local home improvement store. If the finish has dulled, I’d go with a satin. If you wanted to though, you could put a fresh coat of poly over the whole thing and use a semi-gloss. I hope that helps!
Michelle says
Help. I’m frustrated :/ I painted a bunch of furniture a light aqua blue three years ago and one white dresser. I used Minwax water-based polycrylic and wihin 1.5-2yrs it yellowed quite a bit! I just painted a light grey dresser and was told by a local person who paints furniture for a living to use Varathane. I bought some of the “triple thick polyurethane” last night and put a coat on and it turned it extremely yellow. The grey now looks like a dark sand or light brown color. It’s drastically different. I noticed it when putting it on but hoped it would dry differently. Luckily I only did the drawers out of skepticism. I am now sanding it off, adding another coat of paint, and lost as to what I can use for a top coat. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Also, I plan on using this same grey for my kitchen cabinets too so I really don’t want something to yellow so quickly.
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Hi Michelle. That is really odd that the polycrylic yellowed on you. I’ve never had that happen before. Could you have gotten a bad can perhaps? If you definitely don’t want to risk using polycrylic again, I would suggest using a paint in either a semi-gloss or gloss finish. That wouldn’t give as much protection as a polycrylic or polyurethane would, but it would give it some without yellowing it.
Donna Cummings says
I painted my kitchen counters a white grey carra marble look. For a top coat I used one of those glazes that is supposed to be like 50 coats of polyurethane. It was difficult to get an even coat because it gets tacky very quickly. It can’t be used on the vertical back splash. I had a few areas that I missed. It wasn’t very noticeable. I waited 3 days for it to dry completely. It yellowed within a month. Should I start over and use polycrilic
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
That might be your best bet, Donna. You’ll have to sand off the old topcoat first and then reapply the polycyclic.
Kevin says
Hi, I don’t have a furniture related question, but maybe you can still give some insight. I need to paint some wooden lacrosse sticks and was wondering what type of topcoat might provide protection from high impact. Left unprotected, the sticks get dinged up pretty quickly. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Kevin
Jenna @ Rain on a Tin Roof says
Hi Keven. I would use oil-based paint on the sticks, which will give the best protection.
K says
What should I use to seal a stained piece of wood that has painted letters on it?
Jenna says
You can use either Polycrylic or Polyurethane. Polyurethane is more durable, but tends to give a yellowed look over time.
Nikki Becker says
Have you tried the exterior paint base as top coat yet?
Jenna says
No, I haven’t yet, Nikki. Sorry!
Dalton says
Painted a kitchen table in a light grey semi gloss oil enriched cabinet enamel. I was wondering, should it need a protective coat on it? Will polycrylic stand up to having pots and pans placed on it on hot pads? Thanks for the help
Jenna says
If it’s an oil-based paint, it shouldn’t need a topcoat.
Shanika says
Hi there! Came across your blog while searching for best ways to furnish my house nicely but on a budget. DIY painted pieces seem to be it. Anyhow, I am very interested in the Velvet Finishes product line. Have you ever used the Protect topcoat w/ non Velvet Finishes paints? Does Velvet Finish paint on its own have a semi-gloss finish? The photos always look pretty matte to me. Also, does Protect have any sheen to it similar to a semi-gloss paint? Im doing kitchen stools right now which I know will get plenty of wear but as a first timer, I really don’t know what paint/topcoat to choose.
Jenna says
I haven’t used Protect with a non-Velvet Finishes paint before. The finish of the VF paint itself is matte, there isn’t really a sheen to it at all. The Protect has a light sheen – more like a satin sheen than a semi-gloss.
Sandra says
I just found your site through Pinterest and love that you put so much information in one article. I’m hoping that your still up to answering questions. I had dark mahogany kitchen cabinets. Built in 1966. I hate how dark the kitchen was. I cleaned them,sanded and applied two coats of oil based primer sanding in between coats. I then applied two coats of Sherwin Williams Cabinet latex paint. In Alabaster. In looked great but a year and half later the paint is rubbing off around the knobs. I’m guessing from opening and closing daily. The door under the sink is actually peeling. I think it’s because the garbage is underneath and wet hands constantly opening and closing are ruining it. Would applying a Polycyrlic keep this from happening? The guy at the paint store said this shouldn’t happen with their paint….well it did! Lol.
If I redid them completely would I sand, prime two coats and then two coats of paint and then add Polycyrlic? Would I even need to prime now that it has regular paint on them? Sorry it’s so long but I would so appreciate your thoughts on this.
Sandra
Jenna says
Polycrylic might help, but probably not for long. Your best bet would be painting them with an oil-based paint as the top finish paint as well. I think you would want to try and sand off that latex paint, give it one coat of the primer and then come back with your color in an oil-based paint.
Sandra says
Thanks so much for the reply. I sure wish I would have found your site sooner. I would have saved myself a lot of work.?. Unfortunately we aren’t in a position to pay for a remodel so I’ll paint them again. My plan sand(are you suggesting a light sand to rough it up for the primer?) then one coat of oil based primer, lightly sand, then one coat of an oil based paint. No Polycyrlic since I’m using the oil, right? Since I’ll be using oil, can you recommended a roller that would work well?
It’s been just two years….I wonder if I could get away with only doing the drawers and doors?? They are what’s showing wear and tear. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise!
Sandra
Jenna says
Yes, just a sanding to rough it up. And no polycrylic since you’re using oil based paint. Ask the paint person at your local home improvement store about what kind of roller to use with oil based paints. I can’t remember exactly which one I used at the moment.
Sandra says
Thank you very much! This is going to be my winter project…again.lol
Sara says
Can you advise on using polycrylic over a piece? I have seen that on a few DIY websites, to cover a paint job with this. However, when I go to a home improvement store, time and again they look at me like I’m crazy when I mention covering a paint job with it – with anything really. I’m using Valspar semi-gloss, and they all say it needs nothing over it. But again – I’ve seen lots of blogs/sites suggest covering with it. When to use/when not to use, and what is the rationale for it? Thanks!
Jenna says
You can use polycrylic over a piece to give it added protection. Semi-gloss and gloss paints already have a somewhat durable topcoat built in, but a polycrylic topcoat just adds to it. Hope that helps!
Pat says
What can I use on my dulled countertops to get a shine on them again?
Jenna says
I’m not sure, Pat. It would depend on what type of counters you have.
Kara says
I am attempting to re stain an antique dresser which I’m going to turn into a bathroom vanity. I used a red mahogany min-wax a decade ago and now want to paint the frame a white and drawer faces and top an espresso colour stain. I am stumped on what products to use to attempt this. Do I strip it first or is sanding enough? Which stain product do I Use? Latex or oil paint? Help!
Jenna says
I think you might be able to sand first. It seems like the new stain color you are using will go over the old stain color. After sanding, test a spot first to see if it looks how you want it to. If it doesn’t you’ll need to sand or strip it down to the bare wood. For the painted portion, sand and prime, then paint. You can use latex or oil based paint.
Sarah Gomez says
Do you recommend using a topcoat over eggshell paint? It also seems to wipe clean very easily and I would rather skip that step if possible.
Jenna says
If you’re ok with how it’s cleaning up without a topcoat, then you could probably skip it.
Sang says
Hi, I have used oil based enamel paint to decorate wooden furniture. Do you recommend protecting those using linseed oil or would polyurethane be better ? At times the paint seems to come off areas when things scrape over it.
Jenna says
Oil based is supposed to be pretty tough and I have never used a topcoat with it. I would suggest asking one of the employees at your local hardware’s paint desk.
Marilyn says
Hi..I chalk painted a nightstand and probably need to put a top coat on it since it’s in my son’s room he’s pretty rough with everything! I’ve read horrible reviews about them yellowing. Can you recommend one that I can use on furniture that I have chalk painted AND furniture that I spray painted that’s not chalked? I want to find one to use on both.. thank you!
Jenna says
For the chalk painted one, I would go with a polycrylic – that won’t yellow. Spray paint is usually pretty durable as it’s usually an oil based paint and those don’t require topcoats.
Patty Richardson says
I just painted a wooden coffee table with colonial red Rustoleum 2x satin spray paint. I am stumped over what to use to top-coat/protect it. (I haven’t been able to find any useful advice on the web.) I don’t want a gloss finish–that’s the whole reason I used satin spray paint. But the table gets a lot of use (i.e. three teenage sons who like to put their feet/drinks on it). What would you recommend?
Jenna says
You should be able to put a polycrylic over it.
Roy Holmes says
How can I tint or otherwise match the yellow color of Polyurethane with Polycyclic? The problem is that a person who will live in this house is sensitive to Polyurethane solvents. I would like to color match the new polycyclic to the old Polyurethane in adjacent rooms.
Jenna says
Roy, I’m afraid I’m no help here. I’m not sure how you would go about this. The folks at the paint counter at your local home improvement store might have some ideas.
Jamie Carroll says
Hi there! Your post was easily laid out and informative, so thank you!! However, my situation is one that I just can’t seem to find anyone else doing haha 🙂 I’m a teacher and had to paint the tops of all of my desks! I am pretty sure they were either real wood or that fake wood, but I painted all of them with an oil-based paint. It is a learning process and I did not put a topcoat on them. Unfortunately, after a few days of being back in school, crayons and markers have already gotten on the desks and it will not come off. I will have to repaint several tops this weekend but I can’t imagine myself re-painting desks every time crayon or highlighter gets on them. What is the best topcoat for this oil-based paint I used, that will easily wipe off classroom materials but still allow students to write without getting weird grooves or ridges on their papers? Thank you so much!!!!
Jenna says
Oh man, this is a tough one, Jamie. I’ve never used a topcoat on oil based paint before, so I can’t say for sure what kind of topcoat would work. Usually, things just easily wipe right off oil-based paint. Did you happen to try a magic eraser on them?
Cindy says
Hoping you can help. Have painted a table with water based paint and have also painted colored fruit as a trim, so there are different colors. Can’t sand down so is there a simple way to put a topcoat on it and give it a bit of a gloss shine? Many thanks!
Jenna says
Sure – A gloss polycrylic should do the trick!
Jade says
Hi Jenna, I have several furniture pieces that requires a protective finish. Which is best to apply using a spray gun?
Jenna says
I would use Polycrylic with a spray gun. I’ve done that several times. You may need to thin it depending on your spray gun and can instructions.
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